To je post iz serije s precej veliko časovno razliko od realnega časa dogajanja do objave. V bistvu sem že skoraj leto dni v Barceloni. More to follow.
Ker so bili pač novemberski prazniki in je v Sloveniji en dan več počitnic sma s kolegom pravično razdelila pod na "polovico" med Barcelono in Ljubljano. Marseille torej.
Vedno sem se spraševala, kaj si moji sodelavci mislijo o meni (ampak mi je načeloma vseeno) - res da preždim v pisarni zgolj 4 urce na dan in ostalo delam od doma (freelance, da ne bo pomote). Tudi če hodim v jeseni v službo vedno v istem puloverju - ker je pač moj najljubši. :-) In občasno pridem na šiht posebej opremljena in hočem spizdit iz pisarne kar najhitreje in če mi bo kdo zadnje pol ure rekel, da par linkov ne dela, potem pač ne delajo. Če do zdaj niso delali, pač bojo še počakali 2 dni. Yes, moj šiht v pisarni je res najjači.
Torej ob 13 h skočim na vlak, da pridem na štoparski plac izven Barcelone, cilj je Marseille ali Avignon, kako bo pač nanesel zadnji štop, upam, da bo zadnji prevoz še pred temo. Predvidevam da bo slovenski kolega rabil kak dan več, ker more čez eno super štoparsko državo, in da tokrat verjetno ne bo porušil Barcelonskega rekorda (Ljubljana - Barcelona v 30 urah in 3 štopih). Vreme ni ravno nekaj, sploh če nekak napol ščije, veš da bo sranje. Z tremi štopi pridem čez francosko mejo - nazadnje me je pobral en francoski parček (ja, francozi pa angleščina ja), kjer je bejba veselo povedala, da se je učila špansko mende vsaj 6 let in ni znala enega stavka povedat, njen tip pa je delal na gradbišču z španci in in portugalci, tako da ni blo druge in sva veselo kramljala celo pot (ja, španščina ni nekaj, če precej dobro obvladaš portugalsko besedišče). Me odložita na cestninski in par minut zatem me pobere kamion. Model je bil ful faca, tud nek francoz, ki že 20 let živi na jugu španije, ampak naglasa pa se mu verjetno nikol ne bo uspelo rešit. Hitro najdema zanimivo temo - Katalonci. Ja, so so narod, o katerem imam posebno mnenje (o tem kdaj drugič).
Po dobrih 6 urah, že mislim, da se bom zakačila 25 km od Avignona, kjer sem načeloma zmenjena za couch surfing. Še dva kratka štopa po 10 km, potem pa me že pričaka moj host pri izvozu za Avignon. Dečko iz slovenije javi, da je še vedno nekje v Italiji in da se jutri šele zvečer dobiva v Marseillu. Tako naslednji dan hengam po Avignonu, bolj ali manj s še dvema CSjema, ki sta pri istem hostu - modela hodita že 5 let delat v Avignon - iz Krakowa na štop, potem pa igrat žive kipe na ulicah :-) Avignon je čist simpatični mestič, ampak en dan je bil ravno dovolj.
V Marseillu dobim dostavo do centra (sej ne bi bilo treba, ampak je pa kul). In potem se odpravimo proti - hm, skvotu :-) Vsakdo, ki je kdaj preživel kako noč na Metelkovi ali v Rogu, ve vsaj približno kaj pričakovat. V bistvu so zaskvotali neko staro hišo/tovarno, bivalni del imajo precej uštiman (sobce in to, še toplo vodo in rožce na oknih), kuhna funkcionira (je v bistvu ena velika hala) internet vleče na enem oknu od sosedov. Mogoče se kdo sprašuje, kak pristaneš v skvotu? Do tegale je naneslo precej slučajno - preden da najdeš enega normalnega hosta na CS v Marseillu, ki ne hosta samo bejb z joškami velikosti ŽNJ ampak kako normalno bitje, je pač tale CS odpisal, da sma zelo dobrodošla ampak, da živi v "comunity", in da je folk res v redu in da so animal and children friendly.
Ja, folk v skvotu je res bil kul. Avtentičen. Večina folk ki dela na ulici (street artisti, bubble makerji, živi kipi in kaj jaz vem kaj še vse), par panksov in tudi par folka, ki pač nekak nima druge izbire. V bistvu so bli vsi precej zabavni ker je itak logično da živijo na budgetu (delaš tolko da zaslužiš minimum od tistega, kar nucaš), občašno kaj pobrskajo po smeteh, tud za hrano so bolj ali manj freeganci in pač kupijo kar pač res rabijo ali pa ko se zaluži kaj preveč.
Marseille itak velja za "posebno" (ja, ta beseda mi je prav všeč, ker lahko marsikaj z njo opišeš), načeloma naj ne bi blo preveč varno (sploh za bejbe same), velika večina folka, ki živi tam, so arabci iz severne Afrike (Alžirija, Tunizija, Libija). Ampak vseeno, a lahko maš tolk jajc pa v halal kebabu vprašaš, če lahko dobiš pir za pit? :D
Za zadnji dan Marseilla se z druščino iz skvota slučajno srečamo na busu in se spontano pridruživa pohudu po naravnem parku Calanque, južno od Marseilla. V bistvu si sploh ne moreš predstavljat, da si res tolko blizu mesta in si v bistvu sredi p* materne. Bil je fajn sprehod, seveda v miniču in allstarkah v hribe! :-) Ja kaj, če smo rekli, da gremo v mestu, standard more bit!
Ker se naslenji dan odpravljama vsak na svojo stran, in se še vedno nisva izjasnila, ali bova šla spat nazaj v Marseille ali bi se premaknila bližje proti avtocesti, seveda proti italiji. Nazadnje pade odločitev, da grema v logistično stratežko vasico ob obali jugovzhodno od Marseilla. Itak si obadva predstavljama vas ali kraj, s par ribiči in počitniškimi hiškami. Itak da pridema tja po temi (niti ne tolko pozno, ampak 1. novembra je kar precej hitro tema). In seveda - fakin haj sosajeti turizem (seveda off season). Itak sma optimista, da boma že našla nekaj za spat (zastonj seveda). Grema na pir, da malo kakega kelnarja kaj povprašama. Ja valda, ti kelnarji se sploh ne rabijo delat francozov, ker francozi že so in nekak nič preveč sreče (čeprav sma namensko izbrala bar, kjer bi ti teoretično mogli kaj svetovat glede takih stvari). Ja nič, mestec je precej prazn - ne precej prazn, ampak skor nobenga ni nikjer. Nakar naletima na eno druščino Tunizijcev (ja tisti folk, ki 24h na dan henga pred kakim pajzlom in ne dela nič drugega). Zmeni se zdaj ti kaj, če ne znaš besede francosko, oni pa tud angleško ne. Kmalu ugotovimo, da oni govorijo približno italijansko, in jaz skoraj tolko približno špansko. "Casa abandonada" je bla magična beseda in dečki kažejo na sosednjo bajto, ki mi nekak na prvi pogled ne zgleda čist abandonada. Ja, pa še odprta je in voda dela, štrom pa menda ne.
Chaka! Blo je prav prijetno spat, še zaklenit se je dalo stanovanje od znotraj.
Naslednji dan ga pičiva vsak svojo smer. Navadno dobiš vsake tolko kak res nepozaben štop, ne pa kar dveh v vrsti. Tam nekje sred avtoceste za Marseillom me pobere en ata, tam enih 60+ let. Itak, standard, francoščina, ki je res ne znam nič. Avto taki fejst usran s škatlicami od cigaret in pepelom povsod. Nakar me ata začne spreševat, če kadim. Rečem da ne, ampak da me ne moti, če on prižge cigaret (ja, pač na štopu si a ne). Stic še kar bluzi in nabija in men res ni jasno, kaj me tej ne štekaš kaj ti pravim. Nakar mi končno posveti, da me ne sprašuje za cigarete. Se sam zasmejim, res foter star 60+ sprašuje če bi joint? Fotr reče, da zdaj pa se morema še obvezno na kavi ustavit, ker joint brez kave, tega pa res ne moreš. Po postanku se uspešno pripeljeva še nadaljnih 120 km al kolko jih je pač blo.
Po skoraj uri čakanja blizu Montpeillerja (res beden spot, ampak ko ne veš al bo še huj če se prestaviš ali ne) mi ustavi ena fajn naložena kripica. Še dve rezervni gumi in dve felni na strehi. Glej, če mamo pa že tolko stvari zraven, pa lahko še enega vzamemo s sabo. Kmalu mi je jasno, da gremo po stari cesti, ker so cestnine preveč drage. In da če hočem, lahko grem celo pot z njima do Barcelone, tam nekje 3-4 dni. Ja, sej sta res zabavna, ampak jaz morem bit čez dan in pol nazaj na šihtu. Malo kramljamo, ko se ustavimo za lulat, nam iz sosednjega kombija ponudijo vse legalne in ilegalne substance (no, tistih legalnih je blo bolj malo), ne hvala, bomo samo lulali :)
Matr, vidva sta res naložena, kam te greta? Bejba je bla GPS, in v vsakem rondoju obvezno nardimo kakih 5 krogov, da se ziher prav odločimo. Bogih 100 km se furamo ne vem kak dolgo, ampak sta modela čist zabavna. Kak bota tota dva prišla do Malija al pa še kam naprej po Afriki, bo verjetno še zabavno.
Še par slikc - Marseille Vieux Port, Avignon, francoski vrtiljak, naravni park Calanques, druga zaskvotana hiša in naložena kripica, namenjena v Mali.
Squatting in Marseille
This is a post from a delayed serie - was published (and written) some months later than it really happen. Actually I live now in Barcelona for almost a year. More to follow.
1st November holidays are a day longer in Slovenia and we decided to split the distance between Ljubljana and Barcelona "equally" - so Marseille is in that middle.
Recently I have been wondering whats my coworker's opinion about me (to be honest, I don't care) - I actually spend just 4 hours a day in the office and the rest I work from home on freelance basis. I usually go to work in the same swather - just because it is my favorite :-) And occasionally I come to work with some special equipment (short trips, volley) and I just want to run out of the office as soon as possible and I don't care if someone finds a broken link on the website - so far, noone noticed it, so it can wait two more days. Yes, I really adore my office job!!
I jump on train towards supposed to be good hitchhiking spot outside of Barcelona at 1pm with the goal to reach Marseille or Avignon (depends on last ride) before the night. I assume that my slovenian friend will need a day more to reach Marseille, especially as there is one very hitchhiking friendly country on the way (sarcasm). And this time he is probably no going to make another hitchhiking record in direction Barcelona (Ljubljana - Barcelona in 30 hours and 3 rides). Weather in Barcelona is not the best, something between rain and clouds, so you know you are - - - . I reach France in 3 rides, with a bit of waiting of course. The last ride over the border was a French couple (yei, French people and english are still not compatible things). Girl proudly said she was learning spanish for around 6 years (and still not being able to say one sentence) and the guy was actually working in construction with mostly Portuguese and Spanish people, so we were able to talk all way (yes, after having decent portuguese vocabulary, spanish is not difficult to understand). They dropped me off at toll station and few minutes later I got a ride by truck. Driver was quite funny, French of course, living somewhere in south of Spain for the last 20 years. His spanish was definitely way better than mine, but his pronunciation - still French. Soon we found an interesting topic to talk - Catalan * people! Yes this is the nation that I can say many things about and I definitely have a special opinion about them (something more about it on another occasion).
After 6 hours on the road it looks like I will get stucked 25 km away from Avignon - I had a deal with couch surfer to have a place there. Two more short rides and I finally reached Avignon. Slovenian friend called me and says he is still in somewhere in Italy and that we can met next day evening in Marseille. The following day I am exploring Avignon with two other CSs that are hosted by the same host. They are funny couple, hitchhiking "up and down" from Krakow to Avignon to work as street performers for the last 5 years. Avignon is nice, but small, I think you can see everything in one day.
I got "delivery" to the center of Marseille (you know, is not required, but when it happens, is always nice). Greet my Slovenian friend and than continue to the squat. :-) Everyone that ever spent the night or two out in Metelkova or Rog (in Ljubljana) know what to expect. It was somewhere on that level. They squatted up an old house/factory, the living area was actually quite nice (liveable rooms, hot water and even flowers on the windows), functioning kitchen (basically a big hall) internet (from the neighbours) available at one window. So, if you are asking, how we ended up in squat? Actually it was a bit of a coincidence - it is impossible to find a normal CS host in Marseille that is not looking for a girls with bra size XYZ only. The guy that offered to host us was quite clear in the message (at least I got it when he said we are welcome and that he is living in a friendly (also dog an children) community :) )
The people in squat were nice. Very authentic :) . Majority of them work as street artist (live statues, bubble maker etc), some punks, and some people that actually didn't have any other choice. They were very interesting and it was logical that they really live on budget (earn the minimum of what you need), occasionally search for something in garbage and majority of them are also at least partly freegans and just buy what you really need or when you earn something "too much".
Masreille has a reputation of a bit "special" city (I actually really like this word, because you can describe a lot with it :D ) and is definitely not the safest place (especially for women travelling alone) and majority of people that lives there are Arabs from north Africa (Algeria, Tunisia and Libya). Anyway, isn't is silly to ask for a beer in a halal fast food place? :D (It wasn't me).
It was our last day in Marseille and while on bus we met a met the group from squat going for a hike in natural park Calanque in the south coast of the city. So, we joined them. It was quite a surprise to see a real nature so close to the city. It was a nice walk, of course I was in my allstars and mini skirt :-) Man, I was planing to spend some time in a city, not in the wilderness!
As we were to leave next day to our own way, we were still undecided to either return back to Marseille or move closer to the main highway (the one that continue towards Italy). In the end (yes in the night) we decide to go to the village at the coast in direction south east. We both expected a charming french fishing village and it was everything else than that - a "high society fancy tourist place", out of tourist season. We are still optimistic and hope to find a free place to sleep (1st November is already cold to sleep outside). We decide for the best plan, to go for a beer and ask in a bar (this usually works well) and of course French people doesn't need to pretend that they are French (ie. I don't understand what you want) and keep on pointing out to the fancy hotels. City was really empty, almost no one was outside. After awhile we met the group of Tunisian guys (yes, those folks that hang 24h a day in front of the same bar and nothing else). We soon realize that their decent italian and my broken spanish is the best way to communicate. "Casa abandonada" was the magic word and they were pointing to the house literally next to us - and didn't look like abandonada. But they knew is open and even have a running water (but probably no electricity).
Chaka! It was a nice sleep and even possible to lock the apartment from the inside.
Next day we are going our own directions east and west. Every now and then, you get a really funny ride while hitchhiking but it rarely happen that they are two in the row. Just on the other side of Marseille I was picked up by "an uncle", 60+. Standard. F* French language that I really have zero knowledge. Dirty car, cigarette boxes everywhere, cigarette ashes also. Soon the uncle asked me, if I smoke. I say I don't but it doesn't bother me if he does (yes, his car his rules). He kept on asking me the same, until I finally realized that he is not asking about the cigarettes. I started to laugh, especially because it was so unexpected. Really, a 60+ old man is asking me if I want a joint? And he is insisting - you can't have a joint without a coffee! After a coffee break at the first station the ride continued for the next 120 or something km.
After waiting nearly for an hour close to Montpellier (a quite shitty spot, but you are never sure either you should move to another place or not) a super loaded banger stopped. Even with two spare tires and two spare wheels on the roof. And you know, if we already have so much stuff, we can also pick one more person! Soon I realized we are not going to continue on the highway (because the toll is too expensive) and the couple offered to go to Barcelona with them - but in 3 or 4 days. Well, the only problem is I have to be back to the office the day after tomorrow. Their company was nice and after a while we decide to make a "toilet stop" and the van on the parking place offered us everything possible - means legal and illegal substances (well, there was almost nothing legal except the alcohol).
I still didn't know where the French couple is heading to. The girl was a bad GPS with a huge maps book and in every roundabout we needed to make at least 5 circles just to be sure we are going right (but we didn't). We needed few hours to move a bit more than 100 km towards spanish border. I'm not sure how (or if) they managed to reach Mali and continue their African trip, but at least they had much fun anyway.
Photos - Marseille Vieux Port, Avignon, typical french carousel, natural park Calanques, another house that we squatted and the car for direction Mali.
Labels: blorum, francija, marseille, retrospektiva, skvotanje, štop, sumljive stvari
